Mountain Layout — Skiing

Here is a larger, more detailed map of Sunnega-Rothorn.

Here is a larger, more detailed mapof Gonergrat-Stockhorn.

Here is a larger, more detailed map of Schwarzsee-Klein Matterhorn.

Here is a map of the Matterhorn Ski Paradise in pdf format.

Unlike many other fashionable ski resorts around the world, most people who come to Zermatt actually ski! There are about 313 km. of pistes and 63 lifts covering three separate (though partially connected) areas and the Italian resort of Breuil-Cervinia with a lift capacity of 75,701 skiers per hour. There are numerous cross-country trails between the mountain villages. All the areas have runs for beginners, intermediates and advanced skiers, though in all fairness, Zermatt is not the perfect place to come as an absolute first-time skier. Intermediates should also realize that the trails will not all be groomed as they are in the States, though there are plenty of them and there should be no problem skiing anywhere.

Zermatt sits at the end of a long valley and is bounded by three major skiing areas, known as the "Matterhorn Ski Paradise." Each area will keep skiers busy for at least two days’ worth of thrills. The three lift areas branch out from different sections of Zermatt and all are within walking distance depending on where you are staying. There is a free ski bus connecting the three areas and taxis can take up to six passengers to any of the lifts in town for €2 per person.

The Sunnegga-Blauherd area (7,506 feet) is quickly reached by an underground cable railway and has ski lifts that reach the Rothorn Paradise at 10,180 feet. This area is the least time-consuming to reach; the cable railway leaves once every 10-20 minutes on its four-minute journey to Sunnegga Paradise. This area also gets the most sun in the valley and has recently been equipped with snowmaking facili-ties that stretch from the top station down to National. A quad chair now whisks skiers from Patrullarve up to Blauherd, eliminating what was one of the worst lift lines in the area. To further ease the traffic in the area, the Sunnegga-Blauherd cable railway was recently replaced by a new combination cableway with 8-person gondolas and 6-person seats. If you want the quintessential Swiss experience, you can have your picture taken with Dixie, a wonderful drooling St. Bernard, who hangs out just above Sunnegga. Each picture costs €10 and can be purchased at Foto Fast in the train station plaza.

From Blauherd there are numerous ways down. Or another cable car takes you still higher up to Rothorn Paradise with its own intermediate runs and a triple chair lift to service them. Long runs back down to Tuftern will keep advanced skiers and intermediates happy. The Sunnegga and Rotheron Paradise are also where locals ski when visibility is poor; trees lining the lower trails help improve depth perception in flat light.

The Fluhalp trail from Sunnegga Paradise down to the lower station of Gant initially has good skiing but long flat runouts at the lower levels. For those planning to hook up with Gornergrat, it’s the better of the two connections, but it is not recommended for anyone below advanced intermediate. The cable car from Gant to Hohtälli lifts skiers and riders almost 3,500 feet and accesses the Gornergrat area more easily than the two steep T-bars that used to service this area.

The Gornergrat area is served by a cog railway that has been expanded in recent years with additional cars. It leaves from the center of town, and the ride to the upper station takes about 40 min-utes. The wait in line at the Gornergrat station in town can be up to a half hour in high season. Normally, however, when the line at Gornergrat is long, walk over to Sunnegga Paradise and head up the mountain—there’s almost no wait.

From Gornergrat there are a variety of fun rolling intermediate runs, many of which are covered by snowmaking now. There are several ways of skiing down to Riffelberg where you can get back on the train or take the new 6-person covered chair-lift from Riffelberg to Gifthittli (below the Gornergrat station). Beginners can get off on the way up at Riffelberg, where there is a platter lift with its own trails to the right of the big hotel.

Conditions permitting (usually after the Christmas season), there is a cable car that continues from Gornergrat to Hoht_lli and in winter 07/08 there will be a new ski lift to the freeride resort Stockhorn. These lifts open a whole new area of expert terrain served by its own T-bars and the Gant-Hohtälli cable car.

From Gornergrat, you can ski almost 3,400 feet down to the train station at Landtunnel, taking the train to the top again. Alternatively you can ski from here to both of the other areas in Zermatt—Sunnegga Paradise and Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Then if you chose you can ski back to Gornergrat from Matterhorn.

The ski route from Gornergrat down to Furi where you get the cable car up to either Furgg or Trockener Steg is quite scenic and great fun for any good intermediate skier and is highlighted by several mountain chalets where you can stop for lunch or a drink. From Furi, the route continues right into the center of Zermatt if you don’t choose to take the lifts to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.

The third ski area of Zermatt is Klein Matterhorn or the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise area. This is the largest area and it is here that you connect with the ultimate intermediate skiing experience in the world: cross-border skiing to Cervinia!! This sector is reached by a series of cable cars. It is slightly out of town and up-hill; unless you are staying at this end of town, take the bus or a taxi to get here. The bus drops you at the bottom of a slippery hill, but a taxi will take you directly to the lift.

It can easily take 45 minutes to an hour to reach Matterhorn Glacier Paradise's top station, but once you are there, skiing on the glacier is good throughout the summer. Snowmaking facilities have been installed below Trockener Steg down to Zermatt in order to keep the lower sections of the ski area open in the warmer months. But unless it’s a good snow year, you will likely have to take the cable car or gondola back to Zermatt at day’s end.

From Trockener Steg you are again confronted with one of skiing’s engineering marvels, the cable car to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. If your heart can take it, try and stand in the front of the cabin and watch as you approach the top station (the highest cable car in Europe). Try and imagine building this thing! Once you arrive, you walk through a tunnel of about 100 yards. If you are in the mood for a diversion, visit the ice cave or the platform, both accessible from the tunnel. Or continue down the tunnel and come out on what is certainly the single most breathtaking view in skiing. Unfortunately the conditions here can be cold and windy, since you are on top of the world at about 12,746 feet. The ski down is not at all difficult and any budding intermediate can handle it. This is the glacier area that is open all summer and serviced additionally by six T-bars and a new chair lift.

WARNING: This glacier area is very dangerous if you decide to ski off-piste (off the marked and groomed trail). The stories people tell about crevasses swallowing up skiers are painfully true. We have received e-mail and letters from skiers and family members about those who have been lost on this glacier. Some of the stories have happy endings where the friends are rescued. Most stories are tragic. A friend of mine died falling into one of these crevasses. A mother died when she fell as she tried to climb out of a crevasse, while her son tried to get the ski patrol to go and search for her. Be careful and ALWAYS SKI WITH A BUDDY ON THE GLACIER. If someone falls into a crevasse stay with them. Get someone else to go for help.

Unfortunately, the ski patrols, in Italy and in Switzerland, have received too many false reports of missing skiers. These “missing skiers” normally are found in a bar drinking or back in their hotel room.

From the glacier you can ski back down to Trockener Steg or head over to the Italian ski resort of Cervinia. There is a restaurant right on the border at the top — a great place to stop and enjoy the view if the wind isn’t blowing.

Going down to Trockener Steg opens up another area of skiing. There are several T-bars and a new 6-person covered chair-lift called “Furggsattel Gletscherbahn” to take you back up, and if you continue down to Furgg on the steep intermediate run, you can take the cable car back. One of our favorite runs is from Furgg back down to Furi—an expert run that may make you feel as if you are Bode Miller on an Olympic course.

Or from Furgg, you can take a gondola up to Schwarzsee Paradise. Schwarzee is a great place to end your day as it marks the beginning of a very scenic run, easily handled by below average intermediates, down to Furi.

Over to Italy: Skiers shouldn’t miss the opportunity for a special adventure: skiing over to the Italian side of the mountain and visiting Cervinia. Don’t expect a picturesque Florence-style Italian town — Cervinia has all the architectural flavor of frozen pizza. Fortunately, the cooking in Cervinia is excellent. After the hour-long ascent and the long run into Cervinia, you’ll be ready to have a good Italian meal. This is an experience not to be missed by anyone with modest intermediate skills or better. The entire day can be taken up with two cruises down the Cervinia trails and a sumptuous full Italian lunch.

Always make sure you come with the idea in mind that you may have to spend the night if the weather changes and they are forced to close the lift. In 13 years this has only happened once to one of our staff, but the warning to bring your passport is probably a good idea.

Change your money before you strike out for Italy—the rates for changing Swiss Francs into euros are better on the Swiss side of the mountain. However, Swiss Francs are accepted freely in Italy, albeit at poor exchange rates. Remember to buy the pass that is good in Italy as well as in Zermatt.

The last lift leaves at 3 p.m. There are gondolas all the way to Testa Grigia, so lift lines for getting back to the Zermatt side are not too bad, but they can take a while to negotiate.

The last lift leaves at 3 p.m. There are gondolas all the way to Testa Grigia, so lift lines for getting back to the Zer-matt side are not too bad, but they can take a while to negotiate.

Mountain rating
Skiers of every level will find thrills in Zermatt. Each area has some runs to make beginners feel like experts, and some to make experts wonder just how expert they really are.

When there is enough snow, advanced skiers will enjoy the Kumme side of the Rothorn Paradise and some of the steeps drop back into the village from the Sunnegga Paradise area. There are a half-dozen steep, bumpy and exciting runs in the Gornergrat section from Stockhorn, Rote Nase and Hohtälli down to Gant into the valley between Sunnegga and Gornergrat. And although the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is wide open with gentle slopes, some of the runs from Schwarzsee Paradise back into town can be testing. Experts also have almost unlimited opportunities for off-trail skiing, but given the dangers of glacier skiing, we recommend hiring a guide at the Alpine Center.

Intermediate skiers can be happy in any area, but should avoid many of the black runs, which are really for experts. Plus, many of the trails are not groomed. If you take the cable car over to the Stockhorn, Rote Nase and Hohtälli, be aware that there is no easy escape from the steep and bumpy.

Beginners will find easy slopes on the Gornergrat area and on the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. Also, the Sunnegga and Rothorn Paradises have a good long begin-ner/lower intermediate trail network from Blauherd into town.