Saalbach-Hinterglemm, Austria

Dining

Austrian cooking mirrors the country and its people—hearty, simple and unpretentious. Few sights are more welcome after a full day’s skiing than a generous pork filet with mushroom gravy and a heaping portion of Spätzle, Austria’s unbeatable doughy noodles. For a sweet treat on the mountain, try Germknödel (a sweet doughy bread filled with jam and covered with warm vanilla sauce).

Hotel Sonne photo, Saalbach, Hinterglemm, AustriaThe Hinterhagalm (7282 or 6291) just at the top of the Turm T-bar is something of a local legend. Its 5 p.m. tea bar is one of the most notable après-ski events in the valley, yet at night this beautiful old lodge serves traditional Austrian dishes with old-world atmosphere. This restaurant was a back-drop for “The Sound of Music.”

Nearly all the major hotels in both Saalbach and Hinterglemm feature good restaurants, and you’ll find menus with prices conveniently posted outside. Those with man-sized appetites should try the restaurant in the Hotel Sonne (7202; photo left), featuring more than five different steak dinners. Restaurant Kendler (6225) is highly rated by the critics and filled with rustic atmosphere. Try the sole or the very Austrian onion roast venison and bring cash.

No ski resort is complete unless it has an informal pizzeria with good food and reasonable prices. In Saalbach the pizzeria in the Hotel Haider (6228) gets our vote.

No less than 40 moun-tain chalets serve food, and each lift seems to have one of these either at the top or bottom—or both. Two mountain huts deserve special mention—the Wildenkarhütte at the top of the Schönleiten cable car for its spectacular panoramic view, and the rustic Thurner Alm (8418; on the trail midway up the new Bergeralm chairlift) for its hunting lodge flavor and ski-up bar.

We’ve also heard good things about Goaßstall (8705), a lodge in Hinterglemm at the bottom of the Reiterkogel gondola. which serves a special dinner called “Hot Goat”. It’s a fillet of steak served on a traditional wooden platter in the shape of a goat.


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