Dining

This is a town dedicated to eating. On the slopes you can’t go wrong at any one of 59 different restaurants. Even the self-service at Plan Checrouit is good, filling and cheap. The Christiania (0165.843572, fax 0165.846381) serves incredibly reasonable pizzas and pastas as well as full meals. The owner, originally from the island of Elba, prides himself on fish dishes; however they are only cooked to order—call ahead. Chateau Branlant (0165.846584, fax 0165.846363) is worth the dining experience if only for its tasty desserts. Dropping down into the Val Veny try to find La Grolla (0165.869095, fax 0165.869783) at Peindeint for a great (and expensive) meal. Or head to the base of the Zerotta lift and grab a bite at the Petit Mont Blanc (0165.869066).

Most of the hotel restaurants are good. If you want to get out and explore the local restaurants, follow the old rule: if it is crowded with locals, then it must be the place.

Try Cadran Solaire, a diner’s delight, on the main street (tel./fax 0165.844609). La Palud (tel./fax 0165.89169) serves excellent fresh fish and Pierre Alexis 1877 (tel./fax 0165.843517) on Via Marconi also has fine dining. Or try the very reasonable Mont Fréty at 21 Strada Regionale (0165.841786, fax 0165.845095) at 21 Strada Regionale. One of the best spots in the middle of town for traditional Valdostana cuisine is the small and quaint Leone Rosso (0165.846726, fax 0165.847747). Le Coquelicot (0165.846789, fax 0165.845500) has a French owner and therefore French fare. Pizzeria Tunnel has great pizzas and is normally packed.

Outside of town Maison de Filippo (0165.889797, fax 0165.889705) in Entrèves where, for a fixed price (about €30), you are served some 40 courses. The stream of food seems never to end, with servings of antipasti, pasta, sausages, contorni, salads, various meats, and baskets of nuts and breads. It used to be exceptional, but has grown far too crowded over the past decade.

Chalet Proment Da Floriano (0165.897006, fax 0165.897900), known locally as simply Da Floriano, is an out-of-the-way, romantic and traditional spot next to the cross-country area La Val Ferret. The owner prides himself on his local specialties of boudin—blood sausage with beets, fontina cheese, marinated smoked pork and excellent wines. Across from Da Floriano is the Miravalle (0165.869777, fax 0165.869729; photo above) which receives rave reviews from many local chefs. It has a selection of more than 120 local wines. Val Ferret also has La Clotze (0165.869720, fax 0165.869785; photo left) restaurant which has been awarded two Michelin forks.

The local red wines are excellent. Try Donnas—a strong heavy dry wine; and Enfer d’Arvier—lighter and fruitier. A good grappa or genepy finishes off the meal in Val d’Aosta style.