An old wine bar, the Enoteca (0436-862040), is normally packed with merrymakers. Enoteca has a room where can buy wine by the bottle together with cold cuts and cheese. The best part is still the narrow original bar room.

Head to Terrezza Viennese (photo left), attached to the Hotel Ancora. Here they serve rich Austrian pastries and coffee with a background of soft piano music. In the evening they offer crepes flambé.

The Hotel Savoia has the Ballads Piano Bar. Bar Arnika (0436-3266; 102 Corso Italia—down a passageway between 85 and 106) serves scores of pure Scotch Whisky malts. It is a good place for a restrained evening.

Birreria Hacker Pschorrz (0436-867625), a Bavarian-style beer place, serves liters of beer for around €3.50 and has live electric oom-pah-pah music from about 10 p.m. onward. This spot fills up early. Closed Mondays.

Discos don’t really start up until midnight. The disco at the Europa hotel, VIP Club (0436-3221), seems to be the main action place. Metro Club gets a pretty good group of Americans and Brits on tour groups. The Bilbo Club (0436-5599) mainly caters to a young crowd earlier in the evening and an older group later on. It is erratic regarding clientele—it really de-pends on hitting them on the right night.