Mountain Layout — Skiing

Here is an interactive Arlberg map (east).

The available ski area is significant. More than 50 grooming vehicles prowl the slopes included in the Arlberg ski pass, creating 163 miles of piste and leaving 112 miles of deep snow. The area is served by 85 lifts and cable cars. The main Galzig tram has been updated with a Funital lift featuring 28 mini-gondolas, each holding 24 passengers, which is triple the capacity of before.

Perhaps the resort that best characterizes the Arlberg is St. Anton (or Stanton, as many Americans pronounce it). In mood it’s an endearing mix of Alpine rusticity and the most modern elements of international ski high life.

Throughout the Arlberg you’ll encounter guest houses, shops and perhaps a Würst stand or two named for the Valluga, the 9,220-foot rocky pinnacle—the high point in St. Anton skiing.

It is from near the Valluga summit, reached by cable-car, that one of the great intermediate skiing cruises in Europe begins. The slope from the Vallugagrat (8,692 feet) is filled with hundreds of turns as you work your way down for at least an hour to the valley floor.

Experts can take the final section of the cable car to the top of the Valluga. After a difficult climb—accompanied by a guide only—they can ski down to Zürs.

You’ll find less nerve-rattling skiing further down. We recommend the massive mogul field off the Tanzboden lift, where you’ll see the best skiers bouncing from bump to bump, throwing in the occasional 360-degree turn for flair. Or take the Schindlergrat triple and choose to ski the groomed Ulmerhutte or challenge yourself on the ungroomed Schindler Kar or the Mattun. The village of St. Christoph, which sits along the crown of the Arlberg Pass at 5,904 feet, is the other ground station for skiing this side of St. Anton.

The blue and red runs are cruises that offer great enjoyment, and there’s good skiing for beginners from the base at St. Christoph. Once served only by T-bars and a tram, St. Christoph now has quad chairs taking skiers up to the Galzig area.

The other ski area on this side of St. Anton is the Kapall, a 7,629-foot summit where you’ll enjoy the two blue runs to the Gampen midstation at 6,068 feet. From Gampen continue through the trees into town, or drop over the ridge into the Steissbachtal and take the last half of the Valluga run.

When the crowds are too much or the snow turns to mashed potatoes, head to St. Anton’s third ski area, the Rendl (6,888 feet). It’s less crowded because the single gondola that serves these slopes is a longer walk than the cable cars to the other areas. It is also served by a good shuttlebus system.

The mountain is shaded in the morning, which means it can be icy; however, by afternoon the snow is in better shape than in the rest of St. Anton, especially in the spring. The powder lasts longer here as well and there is some steep challenging terrain especially off of the top. The best intermediate run is from the Gampberg summit (7,895 feet) back into the village. Snowboarders will want to test their skills in the fun park.

This area is also the scene for après-ski activities. Sun worshippers flock to Rendl Beach to catch the afternoon rays and sip “Absolut Dream,” a Rendl Beach concoction made of peach schnapps and vodka.

Zürs and Lech can be easily skied together, but there is no real connection between St. Anton and Zürs and between Stuben and Zürs. However, as noted, guides take experienced skiers—experts with guts—from the Valluga down the Lech/Zürs side. To get back you have to depend on your car. The free shuttlebus from Lech to Alpe Rauz or the public bus from Lech to St. Anton (costs about €3 per person one way).

Either Lech or Zürs would qualify for resort status by itself, even if their lift passes didn’t cover the entire Arlberg. In Lech skiing is centered on the Oberlech region. This section of the mountain can be easily reached by a cable car and two chair lifts from the center of the town. A system of 16 lifts takes skiers further up to 7,799 feet. This area will keep an intermediate busy for two days, and off-slope skiing will challenge experts. Opposite Oberlech is the Rüfikopf area, reached by a high-speed cable car. From here experts—real experts—can drop straight down the face to Lech, while intermediates can loop around or cruise down to Zürs.

Zürs is a bit tougher as far as marked trails go. All the runs from the top of the Trittkopf (7,985 feet) are rated intermediate, but most would rate a black diamond in U.S. resorts. Once again, experts can make their own trails straight into town. The Madloch side of the valley has six long intermediate runs and three long beginner runs. However, after the area is well skied, you can venture almost anywhere on this side.

One of the great runs of the area is known as the White Ring, a three-hour circuit that swings around both sides of the valley, connecting Lech, Zug, Oberlech and Zürs. Take the lifts to the 7,997-foot-high Madloch Joch and then ski the red (intermediate) Madloch run around the back into Lech. To complete the circle, take the cable car from the middle of town to Rüfikopf and ski down and across to the base of the Hexenboden lift and then to Zürs. For Zug, detour off the Madloch and then come back up on the Zugerberg lifts. From there, it’s a red-rated (intermediate) cruise down into Oberlech.

Stuben, tiny with only a few lifts, is our favorite bargain village in the region. It’s inexpensive, but a bit out of the way. The best run is intermediate—from the Albona Grat (7,872 feet). Stuben is connected with St. Anton/St. Christoph by the blue-rated trail from the Albona midstation to a crossover tow at Alpe Rauz. From there, take the chair lift to Pfannenkopf and work your way down into St. Anton.

Mountain rating
Intermediates run the show in the Arlberg region. St. Anton is overwhelmingly red and blue on the ski map, with plenty of challenges that merit expert skills.

Although Lech and Zürs cover all the levels, prepared runs favor the intermediates on up. Experts will never get bored thanks to the wide-open expanses of off-trail powder that are among the best in all Europe.

Real experts can find off-piste and out of bounds places that will take their breath away. There is really something for everyone here.